Foaming cleansers have long reigned as the darling of skincare routines thanks to commercials lauding their creamy, luxurious lather. These sudsy rituals fostered a universal association: More foam equals a better, deeper clean. But over time, these cleansers gained a reputation for being overly harsh, often blamed for stripping the skin and compromising its natural barrier.
So, what led to their fall from grace? And with advancements in skincare, do they still deserve their bad rap? Let’s take a closer look at how foaming cleansers work, who should use them, and whether they have a place in your routine.
HOW FOAMING CLEANSERS WORK
At the heart of every foaming cleanser is its star ingredient: Surfactants. These compounds power the bubble-making process and, more important, remove impurities from the skin. “Surfactants work by breaking up the oil and dirt on the skin,” explained Dr Evelyn Tay, consultant dermatologist and founder of Lumine Dermatology & Laser Clinic.
“Traditional surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) lather well and create more foam. While this may make it more effective in removing oil and dirt, this ‘detergent effect’ on the skin also tends to strip the skin of moisture, which can make the skin more dry and irritable, especially in those with sensitive skin,” she added.
This moisture-stripping quality prompted backlash, sparking debates about whether foaming cleansers were ultimately more damaging than beneficial. As a result, many began to associate foaming cleansers with an overly aggressive approach to skincare, prompting consumers to seek gentler alternatives or abandon them altogether.
THE EVOLUTION OF FOAMING CLEANSERS
In response, the beauty industry has reinvented foaming cleansers, shifting the focus from harsh deep cleans to more skin-friendly solutions designed to cleanse without compromising the skin barrier.
Foaming cleansers today often include hydrating and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which help offset the drying effects of traditional foaming agents. These additions ensure you can enjoy a bubbly cleanse without compromising your skin’s moisture levels. Many modern formulations are also pH-balanced, minimising irritation and making them a gentler choice for daily use.
That said, not all foaming cleansers are created equal. Dr Tay advised being mindful of the entire ingredient list rather than focusing on a single component. “Not all products with SLS or SLES are bad,” she pointed out. “It depends on how the ingredient works with others in the formulation, the concentration, and the product’s stability.”
Another potential irritant to watch out for is benzalkonium chloride (an antiseptic). “It can be harsh on the skin and sometimes cause contact dermatitis,” warned Dr Tay.
DEBUNKING THE “SQUEAKY CLEAN” MYTH
The appeal of foaming cleansers lies partly in the visual experience of lathering up and in the familiar “squeaky clean” feeling they provide afterward. In reality, this sensation often signals that your skin’s natural oils have been stripped away.
“The first sign that a cleanser might be too harsh is a feeling of tightness and a 'squeaky clean' sensation after washing,” said Dr Tay.
If left unchecked, she added, this can lead to early signs of irritation, such as flaking or a stinging sensation when applying skincare products. Fortunately, well-formulated modern cleansers – foaming or otherwise – can clean effectively without compromising the skin barrier. Dr Tay affirmed that cream cleansers and enzymatic cleansers, if well-formulated, can be just as effective as their foamy counterparts.
Given our tropical climate, regular cleansing is crucial to remove sweat, sebum, and environmental pollutants. According to Dr Tay, it’s important to double cleanse at the end of the day. “I usually recommend using micellar water to clean the face once, especially for acne-prone skin, followed by the use of an appropriate cleanser for the skin type. Do so even if one doesn’t apply makeup or sunscreen,” she advised.
WHO SHOULD AVOID FOAMING CLEANSERS?
Even with their modern makeovers, foaming cleansers aren’t for everyone. According to Dr Tay, individuals with facial eczema or rosacea, especially when their condition isn’t well-controlled, should steer clear of foaming cleansers. “They can use cream cleansers or cleansing powders that contain enzymes as alternatives,” she said.
Try: LaRoche-Posay Toleriane Caring Wash, S$40.05
A creamy cleanser that can be used for daily cleansing and makeup removal while protecting your skin barrier. Infused with niacinamide and ceramides, it’s ideal for calming sensitive or irritated skin.
Available at watsons.com.sg
Try: Tirtir Hydro Boost Enzyme Powder Wash, S$21.90
This powder-to-foam cleanser features enzymes as well as rice and mung bean powders for gentle exfoliation, while probiotics and hyaluronic acid hydrate and soothe.
Available at watsons.com.sg
GOOD FOR ACNE-PRONE AND OILY SKIN TYPES
Meanwhile, foaming cleansers can be an excellent choice for acne-prone or oily skin. “Adolescents with acne-prone skin, especially those with active lifestyles, will benefit from foaming cleansers,” said Dr Tay. Their airy lather breaks down excess sebum without leaving behind heavy residue, which can feel more refreshing in our humid weather.
For oily yet sensitive skin, Dr Tay suggested a flexible routine. “The skin is a dynamic organ and oil production will fluctuate based on daily activities, stress, hormonal activity etc. Hence, individuals with oily yet sensitive skin may benefit from using a combination of gentle, non-foaming cleansers when the skin feels dry, and foaming cleansers when the skin is oilier, such as post-exercise,” she shared.
Try: The Ordinary Glucoside Foaming Cleanser, S$25
Made from plant-derived surfactants, this gel cleanser creates a light foam that cleanses without stripping. It also comes with a blend of antioxidants and AHAs to keep skin soft and supple.
Available at sephora.sg
Try: La Prairie Foam Cleanser, S$170
This water-activated mousse removes all traces of makeup and surface impurities, without stripping skin, leaves skin calmed and soothed.
Available at La Prairie counters.